Feasting in the Happiest Food Place on Earth
IE Weekly Samples El Merendero
By: Nancy Powell
If Disneyland had a Tijuana Land, El Merendero would fit the bill. Everything from its blindingly bright exterior tiles to its cheery rainbowed interiors radiates happy, happy thoughts, and instead of serving up thrills and chills for the kiddies, the folks at El Merendero serve up meals that keep tummies singing like a Toon Town parade—at least until the digestive juices wind its way through the Looking Glass and the musical fruit starts singing its own tune. Then, not even the hot, dry Santa Ana winds could possibly wipe that Cheshire Cat grin off our faces.
It’s said that the Mexican merendero is the gathering place for everyone from all walks of life. The attendants here, while catering overwhelmingly to their predominantly Mexican clientele, are all smiles, and the warm, sugary aroma of pan dulce wafting into the main dining room from the neighboring bakery makes our tummies rumble as we walk through the door and park our lazy asses down in a booth. Two old men sitting in a corner by the door, people-watching and enjoying a leisurely Sunday afternoon over cervezas and barbacoa, stopping to chat every so often with the passing waitress or fellow diner. There are families, couples, the curious who stop in, each with their own satisfied grin as plates arrive and food is devoured. I’m the only Asian here, my husband and a handful of others the only gringos that dare haunt this place. And we’re all absorbed in the colorful panorama of personalities coming through the doors. You definitely won’t find the faux rusticity and pretentious BS of an El Torito or wannabe restaurant that waves the flag of authenticity.
I’d pay any day for this ride of Mexican gems at rock bottom prices (would you believe that most everything is under $9 and the pan dulce a mere $.80 per roll?). Everything looks mighty tasty, like the tostadas that arrive piled high with lettuce, meat, cheese and tomatoes for a mere pittance, to even the hot, homemade, thick and crunchy tortilla chips and the fire-roasted, chipotle tinged salsa that’s smoky and bold to the point where the entire bowl is gone before the entrées even arrive.
I don’t even glance through the menu, picking instead the meatiest item from the handful of pictures on the menu—the number 5 combo plate stuffed with two chalupas, an enchilada, a hard-shell taco and a taquito served over rice, beans and shredded iceberg lettuce smothered under a creamy, avocado/lime/cilantro sauce that’s not quite guacamole as I know it, but refreshingly tasty nevertheless ($8.99). The fried enchilada is crispy, every bite the sweet taste of fried corn tortilla contrasting with the moist, melted cheese in a red sauce. I’m thankful it’s not a dried, soggy, wrinkly mess of ingredients that tastes like wet sandpaper. The chalupas are worth the price of the entrée alone—two fried, corn tortilla shells topped with carne asada and a hot, smoky chile salsa whose heat lingers at the back of my throat long after the meat makes its digestive journey down my clogged innards. I am definitely feeling the love. The super combo burrito with carnitas my husband orders temporarily wipes the grin away as the meat is a bit dry and tough, but the size more than sates the college lad desiring a hearty, wholesome meal for under $6. El Merendero’s claim to fame is the burrito chock full of potatoes and meat for $4.55, a steal according to the owner of the Magic Door across the street, and one you’ll not likely find anywhere except in the dark inner cities of downtown LA.
Coming into El Merendero in the afternoon after an exhausting five-block walk though the Arts Colony and Antiques Row is likely to make any true Mexican food lover goofy with gastronomical desire and singing the praises of Tijuana Land for days to come.
El Merendero Mexican Restaurant No. 2 (242 S. Garey Ave., Pomona), (909) 620-4503; Lunch for two with beverages, around $18. Open daily.
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