Lord of the Pies
San Biagio’s does justice—big time—to NYC-style pizza
By: George Donovan
Fast forward to this month, where we’ve set foot in another New York pizzeria. Well, almost. Sure, its zip code and area code both begin with a “9,” it’s not open past 10 p.m. on weekends, it’ll never encounter a Nor‘easter outside its doors and most patrons arrive by automobile—not foot-and-subway. But just about everything else lines up with the East Coast’s circular crust cuisine, right down to the glass counter that greets you as you walk in, offering up slices to go. Yes, Upland’s San Biagio’s is that place.
For starters, San Biagio’s (whose namesake is shared by owner Biagio Pavia) really isn’t your average SoCal mom-and-pop pizza joint. To the contrary, San Biagio is really the jewel hidden in the middle of much pizza blandness. It’s a change, pulling taste buds out of their complacent zones, but it’s great change—a strong diversion from the everyday slice sloppiness. Ordering up a chain or some generic independent shop’s pizza will never be greeted with the same enthusiasm again.
In fact, your new enthusiasm for pizza may be initially ignited by those working behind the counter. They’re a friendly bunch, and such friendship is furthered by counting the number of customers pictured in the Polaroids tacked and framed to the hallway’s walls (one of the picture’s hand-scrawled captions actually notes a couple who actually stopped by the pizza joint on their wedding day). The entire place is actually covered in stuff to see, read and check out, from maps to portraits to sports banners; it’s close to being equal parts pizzeria as it is museum and family photo album, though we’re pretty sure what takes precedence here. The atmosphere’s expectedly casual with decent plastic seats and simple checkered tablecloths (plus there’s the option to dine outdoors on the patio). We’ll just say that the emphasis is in all the right spots.
Oh, and the pizza? Well, if you’ve spent late nights wolfing down slices from Manhattan pizzerias, chances are you won’t be disappointed. Thin crust, slightly on the crispy side, seems to be the place’s signature style, and there’s just the right amount of everything piled atop—a balance that’s often hard to nail, especially when you’re one who believes that just cheese is not what a pizza makes. Again, you’re not going to mistake this for your everyday pizza offering, and that’s what makes a family-run shop like San Biagio’s so terrific.
Although we’ve sampled their 7th Street location, the restaurant does have another location on 19th Street in Upland—good shops like these deserve to start branching out, spreading such tasty love. One thing: Come armed with cash or an ATM card, as the shop doesn’t slide plastic for payment. And if you’re running a tad low on funds, you’ll be set at ease knowing that a daily special will put a meal at your face starting at well under six bucks. And that’s a slice of Big Apple awesomeness that just about anyone can afford.
San Biagio’s New York Style Pizza, 1263 W. 7th St., Upland, (909) 946-9277; 1118 E. 19th St. Suite F, Upland, (909) 949-6900; www.sanbiagios.com.
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