The Truck Stops Here

The Truck Stops Here

Goody’s ships out diner food hearty enough for a Big Mack

By: Matt Tapia

Don’t call it mere trucker food. In fact, it’s way better than the usual fare that’s reserved for the Peterbilt set. That being said, when you walk into Goody’s Family Restaurant in Colton, it’s plain and obvious that this diner-caliber eatery is dedicated to the roughhewn dudes who ride the highways and byways of America, delivering goods and services to all us lowly four-wheeled types. Glance around the ceiling of this place and you’ll see the names of states and images of the commodities they are known for, each one with an actual wall clock worked into the design of the lettering. Up above is California with its grapes. There’s Georgia with its namesake peaches. Idaho—you guess it: potatoes. For Iowa, there’s corn. Washington state belongs to apples. New York’s got milk—though I’m not sure if this is because the Empire State is known for the leche it produces or because its lactose-tolerant population is on the receiving end of said white gold.

 

No matter. For hearty, noteworthy diner/truck stop eats, Goody’s is, well, damn good and satisfying.

 

The Goody’s menu covers a lot of ground. First, note that they serve breakfast until 2 p.m. every day here—cuz truckers don’t believe in that whole no-breakfast-after-11 a.m. nonsense. There are omelets, “From the Griddle” delights (French toast and Belgian waffles, for example) and something called a “Country Breakfast” that includes the staple of every stick-to-your-ribs morning repast: biscuits & gravy.

 

In case you thought concepts like counting calories and portion control weren’t in fashion here, guess again. There’s a “Lo-Cal Section” that sports items like sirloin steak and grilled chicken breast that come with fruit, cottage cheese or Jell-O on the side. What—truckers’ can’t watch their weight?

 

But for this particular lunch outing, let’s focus on something a little more South Beach-unfriendly, shall we? My lunch companion ordered the famed Goody’s Favorites Sandwich, a hefty gustatory creation with a stellar cast of sliced roast beef, Swiss cheese and mushrooms all throwing a party on parmesan bread. The textures of the beef and sautéed mushrooms mingled freely and beautifully and the sandwich made for a filling munchapalooza. So filling we could only finish half of it. Call it a lunch so good, you’ve just gotta take it home with you.

 

For my own dining pleasures, I hedged my bets on the Bar-B-Q Beef Sandwich, a big meaty contender that counts sauce dripping down the sides as a gastronomical virtue. Yes, the menu describes the beef as “tender” and, by Jove, it is. The slow-roasted goodness and super-savory BBQ sauce both combine together like Voltron for a meal that puts the carbs and proteins back in any big rig operator. And the French roll that’s recruited to contain all the meat and sauce—it’s toasted and crispy and provides an aesthetically pleasing package for a sandwich right before your teeth dive in and deliver the coup de grâce.

 

To round out the menu options, Goody’s also showcases Mexican Favorites, a “Fresh From the Garden Section” and Goody’s Handmade Hamburgers. And you’ll see why this place pumps up its chest with the motto “Home of the Freshly Squeezed Orange Juice” as there is a juicing machine visible behind the counter. Cuz nothing says trucker eats like getting a little pith in your OJ.

 

So while most of us aren’t entrusted with getting an 18-wheeler to Poughkeepsie by Sunday—sampling Goody’s transportation-friendly chow might prompt some yearnings for the open road. But get your own trucker hat.

 

Goody’s Family Restaurant, 551 S. Hunts Ln., Colton, (909) 370-1063. AE, D, MC, V.

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